1 lb. mixed wild or cultivated mushrooms, such as oyster, maitake and shiitake

3 T. extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 t. kosher salt, more as needed

1/2 t. black pepper, plus a few grinds

2 fresh rosemary branches

1/2 lb. orecchiette, farfalle or other short pasta

3/4 c. heavy cream

1/2 c. fresh ricotta

5 oz. (1 1/4 c.) fontina cheese, grated

2 oz. (1/2 c. Parmesan, grated)

1 t. finely chopped fresh sage

1 garlic clove, finely grated

Heat the oven to 450 degrees.

Trim the mushrooms and cut into 1-inch pieces.

Toss with the olive oil, the salt, a few grinds of pepper and the rosemary.

Spread on a large baking sheet and roast, tossing once or twice, until golden brown and crisped around the edges, 15 to 18 minutes.

Discard rosemary.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Add the pasta and cook for at least a few minutes less than the package directs. (You want the pasta very al dente; it will finish softening in the sauce.)

Drain well.

Turn oven up to 500 degrees.

In a large bowl, stir together the cream, ricotta, fontina, Parmesan, sage, pepper, garlic and a pinch of salt.

Stir in the pasta and mushrooms.

Arrange in a shallow 2-quart gratin dish or 9×13-inch pan.

Bake until cheese is melted and bubbly and browned in spots, 10 to 15 minutes.

New York Times